Sophia Chabbott of WWD did a great Couture show recap. See the article here and read the retailer reports and trends seen at the show.
Trends quoted in the article are:
"Pearls were also big news at the shows. Several credited First Lady
Michelle Obama as the inspiration for classic two-row pearl necklaces,
while others such as Slane and Slane used freshwater pearls rather
creatively in torsades, and a even a bib necklace of gold and pearls.
Tara showed white South Sea drop pendants with rose-cut diamonds.
And even as consumers focus more on special-occasion buying rather than
indulgence, statement pieces remain in the mix. Yossi Harari’s Mexican
fire opal suites included a necklace with the distinctive orange-hued
opals with black diamond covered beads and high karat gold; Irene
Neuwirth showed oversize bibs with turquoise, onyx and moonstone, Eclat
Jewels Inc. conch pear and diamond briolette sautoir, De Grisogono’s
aquamarine, turquoise and emerald collar, and Sevan’s formidable
baroque pearl cocktail rings with diamond set upside down are priced
well into the five figures.
Brands well-versed in the high end diversified their assortments to
include more affordable and casual pieces. Sasha Primak, known for its
weighty diamond eternity rings, launched a charm line with micro pavé
diamond details. Primak’s lines typically start at $50,000 at retail,
but the new collection starts at a modest $1,000.
Other trends
included black or white diamonds set into blackened gold or oxidized
silver showcased at Nam Cho, Arman, Andrea Fohrman and Coomi, and the
continued push into men’s jewelry. Cuff links, bracelets, rings and
necklaces for men were offered by David Yurman, Marco Bicego, Damiani
and Shamballa Jewels.
Rose gold also remains an important
component for brands. Temple St. Clair launched a line in the pink-hued
metal, as did Monica Rich Kossan. Alternative diamond cuts included
rose cuts and diamond slices at Nina Runsdorf, Andrea Forhman and Paul
Morelli.
Silver collections are an avenue of growth for fine jewelers, many of
which once considered the metal a less prestigious alternative to gold.
Judith Ripka, Monica Rich Kossan and Stephen Webster’s silver lines
have all been performing.
WWD editor's faves:
Yossi Harari's Fire Opal ring
and
Sevan's pearl ring
and
newcomer
Jemma Wynne's
pendants
